I BARMAN sono i nuovi “CHEF” della ristorazione?

Nel locale dove lavoro un Martinez ha lo stesso prezzo di una tagliatella al ragù.
La differenza è che per fare la tagliatella al ragù serve:
– la sfoglina che preparara la pasta fresca con relativo bancone
– la cucina per cuocere prima il sugo, e poi la pasta.
– il cuoco
– la plonge
– il cameriere
– la sala
Per miscelare e servire il Martinez occorre un barman, un ricettario (non decide ne il procedimento ne le dosi, è tutto già scritto), dei buoni prodotti, quasi sempre stoccabili fuori frigo (tranne il vermouth!), del ghiaccio, un bancone (o anche la sola station) e un minimo di attrezzatura.
Tempo di servizio della tagliatella, circa 8 minuti.
Tempo di servizio del drink, 1 minuto.
Per non parlare che la tagliatella occuperà mediamente almeno mezz’ora al tavolo, il drink meno di 10 minuti.

Capite bene che già solo dal punto di vista economico e di gestione non c’è partita tra cuochi e barman.
Quanta professionalità richiede una cucina e una sala e quanta invece un bancone?
Quale è l’incasso medio di un ristorante il venerdì e sabato sera e quanto quello di un cocktail bar?

La formazione di uno chef può durare decenni.
Un barman con qualche anno di gavetta e dei corsi mirati può in 5 anni gestire un bar se ha la stoffa.
Il corso da barman più costoso non arriva a qualche migliaio di euro.
Quello dei cuochi in strutture blasonate può arrivare anche a quasi 20 mila euro.

Nella miscelazione gli unici sprechi sono qualche fetta di agrume avanzata a fine serata.
Distillati e liquori si usano di volta in volta fino ad esaurimento.
Nella cucina esistono molteplici variabili invece che rendono molto più arduo per esempio il calcolo effettivo del food cost, cosa che invece per i drink è relativamente più semplice.

In quest’ottica di base si inserisce poi il livello completamente diverso di community che negli ultimi 10 anni si è creato nei due reparti.
La cucina attraverso i media, con i suoi programmi e food blogger ha creato dei e olimpi per molti insormontabili. Poter conoscere la cucina dei grandi cuochi significa spendere centinaia di euro e avere la fortuna di prenotare per tempo nei loro ristoranti (e sperare di trovarceli).
Nei migliori cocktail bar della penisola il costo medio di un drink oscilla tra i 10 e i 15 euro e nella maggior parte dei casi basta visitarli nei giorni feriali per trovare posto anche di fronte alla propria star.

Mentre i grandi nomi della cucina sono a malapena raggiungibili per un autografo in eventi e fiere, i bartender più famosi sia italiani che internazionali sono spesso raggiungibili anche attraverso i canali social, ridere e scherzare con loro o chiedere pareri tecnici. Nelle medie e grandi città le scuole di formazione e cocktail bar organizzano guest e masterclass con molti di loro, a volte a costi relativamente bassi se non gratuite.

Le stesse fiere di settore hanno approcci diversi. Fiere come Sigep e Vinitaly costano anche 80 euro, mentre al Gin Day o al recente Bar Show di Roma l’ingresso oscilla tra i 10 e i 15 euro al giorno.

Da una parte una ristorazione, quella della cucina, che potremmo definire “pesante”, dove il peso è dato dal costo espresso sia in ambito economico ma anche sottoforma di energie, risorse, personale addetto, tempo. Soprattutto tempo.
Dall’altra abbiamo una ristorazione “liquida” sotto vari punti di vista. Dinamica e veloce, con uno standard anche minimo di risorse (avete idea di quanti drink possiate fare con 6 distillati, 3 liquori, 3 vermouth, dello sciroppo di zucchero e del succo di limone?) capace di intercettare più facilmente il cambiamento e di adattarsi ad esso.

Non è un caso quindi che negli ultimi anni i grandi chef e ristoranti hanno iniziato ad arricchire la loro offerta con angoli bar o progetti che puntano sul bartender e la cocktelleria come core business delegando il food a mero servizio (qualcosa toccherà pure mangiare mentre si beve!).

La previsione in realtà è già presente.
Nei prossimi anni probabilmente la vedremo solo diventare di dominio pubblico.
I Bartender sono già le nuove stelle della ristorazione e probabilmente risplenderanno molto a lungo come gli chef che li hanno preceduti.

La previsione, auspicabile, dopo i barman sarà anche il turno dei camerieri?

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