La colpa è tutta dei ristoratori.
Questo è quello che ho pensato per tanti anni lavorando in giro per l’Italia, facendo stagioni estive e invernali in differenti città e differenti attività ristorative.
Se il ristoratore è un pò il papà di una famiglia e i dipendenti i suoi figli, ho forse per molto tempo vissuto il complesso del trapasso generazionale, quello in cui ad un certo punto il figlio vede nel padre il nemico sociale da combattere, scalzare, sostituire.
Non me lo invento certo io questo mito eziologico, già gli antichi con la storia di Chronos ucciso da Zeus raccontavano bene questo momento di crisi, che si ripete ciclicamente ad ogni cambio di guardia.
E così il ristoratore essendo responsabile, come un buon padre di famiglia aveva sempre le colpe di tutto. Perchè in fondo le responsabilità ce le ha sul serio, ma le colpe forse sono da cercare altrove.
Quando mi è capitato di affrontare discussioni sul perchè dei problemi nel mondo della ristorazione (scarsa professionalità, stipendi indecenti, orari disumani e tutto il resto che ben conosciamo) i passaggi erano sempre gli stessi. In sequenza si attaccava prima la bassa manovalanza, dal portapiatti al bruciapadelle, incapace e del tutto disinteressata a imparare a fare le cose come si deve, a diventare professionisti. Nel frattempo si incolpa anche la clientela, che non sa ripagare la qualità:
“IL CLIENTE VA EDUCATO!”
Che enorme stronzata.
Il cliente siamo noi tutti, quindi smettiamola di voler cercare in una dittatoriale e schematica instaurazione di regime del bon ton la soluzione a tutti i mali.
Poi c’è lo step successivo, ovvero quello in cui addetti ai lavori poco capaci e clienti non “educati”, vengono scalzati dal padre responsabile di tutto questo, IL RISTORATORE appunto!
“La colpa non è la loro, ma di chi li assume!”
“Il cliente sceglie in base alla pancia e a quanto spende, la colpa è di chi si pone nel mercato in questo modo”
E così si arriva al caprio espiatorio per eccellenza, il PADRE/PADRONE, manco fossimo ancora alle lotti di classe operarie nel ‘900. Come dico sempre, la STORIA è una delle materie più sottovalutate in assoluto.
Purtroppo in Italia in particolare, c’è il cattivo gusto di non risolvere i problemi alle origini, e invece di mettere in pratica le regole esistenti si cerca di arginare le questioni con nuove formule.
Mi ricorda tanto l’esempio di quello che non si lava e pensa di migliorare la sua condizione mettendosi il profumo addosso.
Partiamo dalla questione STIPENDI, che di per se arginerebbe il problema professionalità e probabilmente da li la qualità dell’offerta (e quindi educazione) del cliente. Si perchè in fin dei conti dei contratti seri e anche adeguati, esistono nel nostro settore.
Il problema è che la stragrande maggior parte delle attività ristorative spesso non li prendono nemmeno in considerazione.
“Pensavo a un tot a serata”
“Noi qui paghiamo TOT al mese, con XX giorni di pausa a rotazione”
“NOI QUI PAGHIAMO”? Ma pensate che sia normale che ognuno decreta a modo suo quanto pagare un dipendente?
No, ovviamente non lo è. Ma è concesso, e soprattutto ormai, è necessario.
Si perchè il nodo cruciale è questo. Il ristoratore di oggi anche volendo avrebbe enormi difficoltà a poter pagare correttamente un dipendente e non solo per l’enorme costo che ha per lui un normale contratto di lavoro.
Il mercato è cambiato negli ultimi decenni e probabilmente se i ristoranti fossero di meno, la clientela non diminuirebbe certo, ma in compenso ci sarebbe lavoro a sufficienza per chi rimarebbe, tale da poter permettere (ai migliori che restano a gestire locali) di pagare adeguatamente tutti, probabilmente ipotizzo, anche di far guadagnare gli stessi ristoratori.
Pensateci! Quanti locali hanno aperto nella vostra città negli ultimi 5 anni? E quanti hanno chiuso? Quanti erano capaci in questo lavoro e quanti si sono potuti permettere l’assurda impresa di aprire un locale pensando che tanto la manodopera si poteva pagare con i VOUCHER e con promesse sommarie di un contratto a tempo pieno “appena le cose vanno meglio”?
Se ci fossero, o meglio, ci fossero stati controlli seri da sempre in questa REPUBBLICA DELLE BANANE, probabilmente oggi non avremmo tanti ristoratori improvvisati che con 30mila euro e qualche debito decidono di aprire l’ennesimo ristorante con la scadenza.
“I ristoranti italiani guadagnano in tutto il mondo tranne che in una nazione, l’Italia!”
Questa situazione ha fatto si che negli ultimi anni si andassero a concatenare una serie di eventi che con un pò di lucidità ed esperienza sul campo tutti siamo in grado di analizzare:
– professionisti che sono andati spesso fuori dall’italia in cerca di compensi e modalità di lavoro più congrue
– falsi professionisti che lavorano a buon prezzo falsando in un colpo solo il mercato, la qualità del mestiere e appiattendo il livello culturale dell’offerta ristorativa.
– scarsa esigenza competitiva tra colleghi, che spesso non cercano di fare carriera per meriti, ma per conoscenze, per adattamento, per opportunità.
Qualcuno storcerà il naso, ma provate a confrontarvi su questo articolo. Già mi immagino di leggere il commento di chi vive nel lusso di un contratto regolare, inorridire di fronte certe assurdità, e chi come sempre dovrà sputare fango su tutto, sul sistema, sulle tasse e via discorrendo, sostenendo che l’unica via è ANDARE FUORI DALL’ITALIA!
Andare via dal paese che potrebbe/dovrebbe essere patria dell’accoglienza, del mangiare, del bere, dell’attività ristorativa in generale mi sembra quantomeno stupido. Ora che poi abbiamo un ristorante su tutti che ci ha messo sul podio dei migliori del mondo.
Bisogna restare, e lavorare affinchè le così migliorino.
La chiave di tutto è in una sola parola: TURISMO.
Ma di questo intendo parlare in un prossimo articolo.
Mh… L’articolo afferma che i professionisti Italiani “dovrebbero restare” al posto di partire, giustificando l’affermazione dicendo che l’unico motivo per cui si parte siano le migliori condizioni lavorative esistenti all’estero. Da Italiano espatriato da 13 anni credo che la cosa sia spiegata in maniera un po’ troppo semplicistica. In realtà l’estero non offre solo condizioni di lavoro più attraenti, ma anche la possibilità di confrontarsi con altre colture, di espandere i propri orizzonti, e così via, così discorrendo. Io sono di Milano, e francamente il mio luogo d’origine non l’ho più potuto sopportare da quando me ne sono andato (opinione personale, mi scuso con chiunque non condivida il mio pensiero), perché dopo tutte le esperienze che ho vissuto ho sviluppato l’idea che l’Italia sia un paese eccessivamente tradizionalista, al punto di vergere sul retrogrado. E questo fatto si riflette in molti campi, compreso l’alberghiero.
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