Perché non c’è nulla di etico nella vita di chi lavora nella ristorazione.

Mentre scrivo questo articolo in Italia tanti nel mondo della ristorazione si apprestano a fare i complimenti a Uliassi per aver conquistato la terza stella Michelin.
Grande traguardo.
Assieme a loro, in coda, tutti quelli che ora scrivono su facebook o con messaggi privati elogi a chi ha preso la sua prima stella o altri riconoscimenti.
Bellissimo il mondo degli stellati.
Tutto perfetto.
Nel nostro settore ci sono cuochi fantastici che riescono a portare avanti battaglie di tradizione, di ricerca del territorio, di rispetto per l’ambiente e verso chi porta prima che sulla tavola dei clienti, sui banchi di lavoro, le materie prime che andremo a lavorare.
Tutto molto bello.
Tutto così dannatamente minoritario, infimo, relativo, rispetto a quella che è la realtà sommersa, spesso taciuta, ignorata, di quella che è la vera realtà della ristorazione in Italia.
Un iceberg del quale tutti cerchiamo di fregiarci delle onorificenze altrui, della bellezza ideale a cui vorremmo aspirare e sperare mentre nel frattempo, la realtà comune è un’altra.

Chi vi scrive lavora nel settore da 15 anni.
Attualmente lavoro, come voi. Il mio stipendio è regolare a differenza di molti.
Percepisco tredicesima, quattordicesima, e quando il mio rapporto di lavoro finirà avrò la liquidazione.
Io sono un fortunato.
Io non ho problemi di droga, nel senso che non faccio uso ne di cocaina, ne sono consumatore di sostanze più o meno lecite. Quattro, massimo 5 sigarette o “paglie” al giorno e cerco anche di smettere.
Quando esco a bere mi limito a un paio di drink e durante il servizio vado a avanti a tonica e acqua.
Un “ragazzo” di 34 anni che ha maturato abbastanza esperienza sul campo da avere la fortuna di essere scelto oltre che di scegliere.
Un ragazzo senza famiglia ne figli che ha la libertà di potersi spostare, cambiare città e volendo paese per cercare il meglio.

Ma sono un’eccezione tanto quanto lo sono gli stellati.

Si perché in questo paese, in Italia, non c’è nulla di etico a lavorare nella ristorazione e chi fa il cameriere, il cuoco, il barman o il pizzaiolo, il lavapiatti o il ristoratore vive in condizioni che tutto ti fa sentire spesso, tranne che una persona immersa in un oasi felice di possibilità, occasioni e meraviglia.

Dalle storie ormai saturate del cuoco maledetto alla Anthony Bourdain, ai casi di burnout conclamati nel mondo del beverage, il settore è pieno, colmo fino all’orlo e oltre, di quotidiana bruttezza.
Ve lo dice uno che da quasi 4 anni, gestendo una pagina facebook come OCCCA, si trova continuamente a leggere, e rileggere, e ricevere continuamente le stesse lamentele, ad ascoltare gli stessi litigi, faide interne che uniscono e dividono camerieri e cuochi, dipendenti e titolari, lavoratori e clienti, cittadino da stato.

In questi anni, ogni giorno, la bacheca del mio profilo passa continuamente da storie di importanti food blogger che si lamentano dei mancati obiettivi di qualità e successo della nostra penisola rispetto al grande lusso e professionalità ostentata nelle capitali mondiali della ristorazione, a mamme che non riescono a schiodarsi dal proprio banco di lavoro nemmeno alla vigilia di natale, padri cuochi separati, che hanno perso il lavoro, che si ritrovano a scoprire di essere rimasti indietro rispetto alle novità del mondo, in un sud del settore dove a volte sei costretto ad accettare condizioni pesantissime solo per portare un briciolo di stipendio a casa.
Ecco che allora se ne escono articoli in cui sulla riviera romagnola come in Sardegna, controlli e denunce fanno scoprire che nell’ultima stagione intere brigate sono state “costrette” a lavorare 80, 90 ore a settimana per paghe concernenti un orario di lavoro ben diverso, con straordinari a volte pagati a volte nemmeno.
E quello che più sorprende non sono l’ovvietà di queste notizie, quanto chi sostiene che “almeno loro prendevano gli extra in nero, qui da noi lavori gratis e zitto!”
Schiavi che si lamentano di come altri schiavi non si accontentano di quello che hanno in più di loro.

Ci sono poi le “droghe”.
Il consumo di cocaina in ogni reparto.

Chi vi scrive non ne ha mai fatto uso, ma nei quasi 20 locali in cui ho lavorato tra stagioni estive e non, di consumi, abusi, spaccio, dispetti, coltelli, ne ho visti quanto basta. C’è un degrado che va oltre il semplice aspetto illegale dell’uso di sostanze stupefacenti. Troppo superficiale.
Ci si sofferma sulla sostanza ma non sulle persone.
I tratti sono spesso comuni: paranoici, stressati, discontinui, iperattivi e poi depressi. Alcune droghe mostrano solo più facilmente questi aspetti in alcuni.
Vite prese e sballottate da necessità, da assenze, da vuoti, dalla innata umana voglia di uscirne fuori, trovando un modo semplice per uscirne quando le forze per costruire qualcosa di sano e di etico sono finite da un tempo.
Ognuno cerca alla fine come può di riempire quel vuoto con qualcosa che riesca a farlo sentire meglio, qualcosa di apparentemente bello o buono.

Perché il bello e il buono prima o poi ci conquista tutti.
Perché prima o poi tutti siamo affascinati da un ristorante, un cuoco, un maitre, un barman che ce l’ha fatta.
Tutti pensiamo prima o poi di potercela fare, di trovare nella ristorazione una risposta.
Quanti ci riescono?
Quanto tempo ci vuole?
Spesso troppo. Spesso non abbastanza. Spesso non è nemmeno possibile.
Quando tutto finisce allora resta la speranza di un terno al lotto, di una scorciatoia. Quando però sei davanti ad un muro, e ti senti solo, mentre gli altri festeggiano traguardi, le stelle, la natura ti porta ad attaccare per difenderti.
Ecco allora che nascono le faide.
Ecco che le brigate e il senso di unione che dovrebbe essere l’essenza del nostro settore, si sgretolano, e partono minacce, partono lettere di richiamo, partono vertenze, accuse, critiche, che per quanto motivate o immotivate, sono dettate più dal senso di impotenza che questo lavoro spesso ti sbatte in faccia.
Quando nonostante gli sforzi, le speranze e i sacrifici, non riesci a pagare tutti. i fornitori, l’affitto, i dipendenti.
Quando nonostante l’impegno, la passione e lo studio, le tue capacità vengono cestinate da incompetenze, esigenze dell’oggi che non guardano in faccia il desiderio di un futuro migliore.
Quando vengono premiati i furbi, e tu, che hai tentato in tutti i modi di essere il mondo in cui vorresti vivere, finisci per essere parte di un mondo che non esiste.
Provi a fare la raccolta differenziata, anche se il locale accanto se ne sbatte e non viene multato.
Metti le mance nella cassa comune, anche se qualcuno continua a tenersele in tasca.
Paghi regolarmente i tuo collaboratori, ma vieni ricompensato da scarsa voglia, attitudine e voglia di crescere.
Fai più di quello per cui sei pagato, ma non vieni mai premiato o elogiato per questo, ma anzi, finisce pure che quello che non era dovuto, viene dall’abitudine preteso come un obbligo, non retribuito e criticato al primo errore.
Cerchi di fare di tutto per accontentare il cliente, ma quelli che sono stati bene vanno via in silenzio. Quelli che hanno da ridire trovano subito spazio su social e siti di recensioni.

Il ristorante, secondo molti teatro dove va in scena lo spettacolo.
In questo momento, proprio in un teatro, vengono premiati i migliori.
La fuori nel frattempo, compagnie allo sbando raccontano storie che sembrano non esistere.

Mi dispiace signori e signore ma credetemi, non c’è proprio nulla di etico nella vita di lavora nella ristorazione.
Nella vita di chi lavora da anni senza un contratto.
Nella vita di chi viene criticato per aver scelto di lavorare senza alcuna garanzia come se fosse facile per chiunque cambiare lavoro, cambiare città, cambiare abitudini.
Nella vita di chi ha iniziato a fare questo lavoro per necessità e dopo 10 anni si accorge di non saper fare altro, di non aver trovato nulla e nel frattempo non essere stato capace di rendere quella necessità un’opportunità, perché semplicemente nessuno glielo ha mostrato ne spiegato, che esiste qualcosa di diverso.
Non c’è etica, qui ed oggi, nella ristorazione italiana.
In nessun teatro, per quanto bello e sfarzoso.

Forse è proprio da qui che dovremmo tutti ripartire.

  1. Grande analisi. Io son scappato all’estero. Ma sto cominciando davvero a pensare ad un lavoro alternativo che mi faccia abbandonare pian piano questo settore che sta alla frutta

  2. Uno dei tanti problemi della ristorazione italiana è anche che viene ostinatamente vista come un modo facile di far soldi. Gestori incapaci di essere leader e non capi, titolari che considerano guadagno il cassetto e lo spendono in una sera di vizi, padreterni che in realtà sarebbero da considerare scaldapadelle o portapiatti. Il problema della ristorazione è che far da mangiare e servire da mangiare è un lavoro vero, un lavoro estenuante, non un “qualcosa da fare in attesa di” oppure un investimento o una lavatrice di denaro. Poi c’è la povertà intellettuale di molti datori di lavoro, e lì il problema è uno: vedere il dipendente come un.costo e non.come una risorsa. Quanto potremmo parlarne!

  3. come anche nel marketing, nella pubblicità, nell’hotellerie, nella finanza, in qualunque lavoro, persino in politica NON c’è nulla di ETICO.

  4. Credo che sia di gran lunga una delle analisi più oneste, appassionate, e nilanciate che io abbia mai udito..anche io sono da 30 anni nel campo..sono passato attraverso stellati e discoteche, clubs e locali miei..attualmente brand ambassador per un marchio del beverage ho occasione di avere uno sguardo dall’esterno..ma quanta verita nella parole dj questa (lucida) analisi!..e quanta passione e amore per questa professione che emerge dietro alla rabbia e alla delusione!..

  5. Ovviamente ognuno di noi, in base alla vita che ha trascorso nel mondo della ristorazione, può accentuare una o più dinamiche che in questo articolo sono presenti. Ma la verità è questa purtroppo. A prescindere se abbiamo avuto una più esperienze del genere abbiamo cmq toccato con mano il disaggio e la sofferenza di lavorare in questo modo. Io più volte ho tentato di cambiare lavoro ed adesso mi ritrovo a riprovarci per l’ennesima volta ma con un handicap in più, l’età. si perchè tutte queste ingiustizie se li vivi da giovane è un conto se lo fai da maturo è un’altra cosa. In parte accetti meno questa situazione ma dall’altro pur accettandola, per motivi di bisogno, non trovi neanche la possibilità di farlo, perchè trovi davanti a te migliaia di più giovani pronti ad accettare qualunque condizioni pur di sbarcare il lunario o per fare esperienza. E quando l’avrai fatta e non sarai riuscito a diventare uno stellato o un “fortunato” ben stipendiato, allora non sarai più buono perchè costi perchè sei vecchio e allora ti ritroverai nelle stesse condizioni mie di oggi. Buona fortuna colleghi.

  6. Quando preparo un piatto penso di farlo al meglio per chi poi dovrà consumarlo e questa è etica, quando lo servo e ricevo un grazie ed un sorriso o una critica sono attenta e curiosa per capire come è cosa posso fare meglio. E questa é etica. Quando faccio uno scontrino e saluto il cliente che sta pagando mi auguro che sia soddisfatto del prezzo e del prodotto che ha acquistato e questa è etica…quando ancora lavo 1000 piatti i un turno di lavaggio e mi assicuro di farli uscire in servizio perfettamente puliti provo soddisfazione ed orgoglio ed anche questa è etica….. Quando infine ricevo il mio piccolo stipendio ragiono su come farmelo bastare e penso a chi non ha la mia fortuna….. pur facendo le mie stesse fatiche….E questa è etica. È sufficiente che ognuno di noi ci metta passione, senza alzare troppo lo sguardo sulle mille ingiustizie che un sistema non al passo con la realtà ci costringe a vivere. Ma questa è un’altra storia, come ce ne sono tante. Le battaglie migliori si vincono con il tempo. La perseveranza. La pazienza. L’ impegnò. A suon di generazioni e conquiste. E allora ben vengano gli stellati ed i principianti. Ogni opportunità lavorativa si porta dietro un’etica che nasce per prima da ognuno di noi.

  7. Si ma possibile che non si possa fare niente per il nostro settore….anche io faccio questo lavoro da più di 20 anni ma va sempre peggio …noi piccoli cuochi o camerieri non ci possiamo fare molto ma persone come uliassi a cui anche io faccio i miei complimenti o i visti e rivisti canavacciuolo o Cracco possono fare qualcosa o dire qualcosa …ma penso che a loro faccia poco comodo alzare la voce sulla situazione che aleggia sempre di più sul nostro settore. Penso che dovrebbe partire proprio da questi chef il cambiamento ma non penso lo facciano mai perché sono i primi a alimentare malcontento in questo settore dando stipendi da fame facendo fare 80 90 ore a settimana solo perché ti farà curriculum…una bella pacca alla canavacciuolo e via se ti va bene è così se no tanto fuori c’è la fila. No?
    Sembra scontato e banale ma solo il fatto che neanche esiste un contratto per poterci regolamentare per tutte le ore che facciamo sempre in special modo nei giorni rossi del calendario dovrebbe far riflettere.
    Attualmente il ricambio generazionale sta solo a alti livelli perché fortunatamente c’è una squola che si chiama ALMA che sforna fior di cuochi e manager di altissimo spessore (peccato che costa un occhio della testa e quindi come al solito un poveraccio rimarrà sempre tale se non si fracassa di ore di lavoro la propria adolescenza e gioventù) i ragazzi che valuto ogni anno li vedo sempre meno disposti a fare la nostra vita , personalmente non hanno tutti i torti porelli , quando ho iniziato io non era male fare sto lavoro , facevo sempre un miliardo di ore ma i soldi almeno c’erano , negli anni e andata sempre peggio , vuoi la crisi vuoi sto santo euro ma io a sti ragazzi un po lo capisco e non sono d’accordo con chi dice che i giovani non hanno voglia , perché se per la mia generazione per esempio (ho 38 anni) il nostro lavoro per diventare chef o responsabile di sala era scalare una montagna adesso è più dura , grazie ai miliardi di programmi sulla cucina ,ma quanti ce ne stanno? Ovunque roba da matti ..pare che fare il cuoco sia una roba da fighi , si , poi arrivano nel ristorante tal dei tali e gli fanno un …. Per due spicci .
    Quindi possiamo parlare e riparlare ma fino a che non si muove chi può ,quindi chef famosi o politici (se lo saranno mai chiesto come mai e con quale contratto quel cameriere che hanno visto la mattina a colazione a fargli un cappuccio poi la sera è a sporzionargli una iaspigola al sale sta ancora lì?) Qua non cambia nulla anzi con queste nuove leggi sarà sempre peggio specialmente per gli stagionali.

  8. In poche parole voglio dire che si non c’è niente di etico nel nostro lavoro , ma continuare ad accettarlo non fa di noi degli eroi anzi, dare 900 euro al mese ( quando va bene) ad un ragazzo che esce da una qualsiasi scuola alberghiera per fargli fare 300 ore al mese non è poco etico , non c’entra niente l’etica c’entra il sistema che non è solo per niente etico è proprio marcio.

  9. colgo l’occasione per raccontare la mia esperienza ho fatto l alberghiero, e lavoro da quando ho 16 anni ,ora ne ho 21, a 19 anni ho vissuto e lavorato in spagna come cuoco, sono tornato in italia per stare affianco a mia fratello che aspettava una bambina non che mia nipote, quindi ho trovato lavoro in un ristorante gourmet a roma dove lo chef era anche il propietario del ristorante e io ero l aiuto cuoco/lavapiatti/pasticcere/sous chef, perche in cucina eravamo solo io e lui e la sua famiglia, i figli facevano i camerieri e avevano la mia eta ma si prendevano il lusso di trattarmi come un coglione perchè mi lamentavo delle ore lavorative ovvero il lunedi dalle ore 12 alle 24(si esatto avete letto bene) e dal martedi al sabato dalle 9 alle 16 e dalle 18 alle 24(OVVIAMENTE I FIGLI NON AVEVANO QUESTI ORARI LAVORAVANO SOLO LA SERA DI VENERDI E SABATO) tutto questo per 800 euro al mese giustificando il fatto di una retribuzione cosi limitata in rapporto alle ore lavorative perche una volta imparato il mestiere da loro sarei andato da un altra parte per piu soldi…..(si lo so lo pensate anche voi…. NON è UNA GIUSTIFICAZIONE PER PAGARMI MENOOO)
    dopo una settimana di prova volevo andarmene assolutamente ma…..ho sfidato me stesso in quel periodo e sono durato 6 mesi, e giorno dopo giorno vedendo FRUSTRAZIONE dietro quella figura che io chiamavo CHEF mi sono promesso di non prenderlo come un PUNTO di riferimento e mettendo in discussione tutto e me stesso andando contro TUTTI ho deciso di provare ALTRO di cambiare direzione contro ogni pronostico il mio motto è quello di dare il mille per mille in tutto quello che si fa e devo dire grazie a quel piccolo ristorante gourmet che tanto ho odiato perche mi ha fatto crescere mi ha fatto capire il concetto di dedizione per una professione e di sacrificio ma al tempo stesso mi ha fatto condividere a pieno ogni punto di questo articolo

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  121. Between 1949 and 1961, Ferraris received Le Mans 5 times, a document matched only by Jaguar.
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  126. In October 2010, the International Rugby Board announced that that they had concluded
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  128. NWA Cargo’s fleet of dedicated Boeing 747 freighter aircraft flew from some
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  129. It counts for over 45.5 Billion dollars of nominal
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  137. Doğan, Zülfikar (26 Might 2018). “Muharrem İnce: Turkish economic system needs political reform”.

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  138. 海遊館が指定している休館日やゴールデンウイーク、お盆時期など、特定の時期には利用できない場合がありますので、念のため行く前に事前確認をしておきましょう。
    キャンベラは他州内の都市と同様にオーストラリア首都特別地域(ACT)およびジャービス湾特別地域(JBT)の一部としてオーストラリア連邦議会の議席選挙区の区割りが設定されている。 テレビ朝日系列のバラエティ番組などでしんのすけが(着ぐるみで)特別出演するときがある(『新タイムショック』など)。 「はるか」は定期列車の半数が運休。 デジタル版)の発売を1週間延期することを発表した。王朝絵巻のような宮神輿や装束の巡行は、優美で格調高く、山王祭を代表する行事です。