Caro Babbo Cannavacciuolo,
ti scrivo questa lettera, un po’ perchè sei grande come il Babbo più famoso, un po’ perchè come lui giudichi i buoni dai cattivi (cuochi e ristoratori) e un po’ perchè quest’anno un regalo lo hai fatto a tutti quanti noi.
Già perchè con la storia del controllo e relativa multa al tuo Bistrot di Torino, i media hanno saputo confezionare l’ennesimo regalo a tutta la ristorazione, dalla sala alla cucina.
Facciamo un passo indietro e spieghiamo brevemente.
I NAS sono andati a fare quella che dovrebe essere una normale ispezione di routine presso un ristorante, il tuo, precisamente il BISTROT di TORINO.
Alla fine dei loro controlli sono emerse diverse anomalie che hanno fatto scattare le sanzioni.
Il problema, mediatico in particolare, emerso, è stato il tipo di irregolarità, o come qualcuno esagerando ha scritto “frodi alimentari”.
Infatti pare che sui menù dello Chef stellato, mancassero gli asterischi sui prodotti che presumibilmente, trovati nel congelatore, dovevano essere gli stessi usati per le preparazioni.
Gli asterischi sarebbero dovuti servire da legenda per specificare l’uso di prodotti congelati, o, come dallo stesso Cannavacciuolo segnalato, abbattuti da freschi e poi conservati in congelatore.
La premessa finisce qui perchè non ci interessano tutte le implicazione, i “se” e i “ma”.
Di sicuro Cannavacciuolo, forte della sua professionalità e capacità mediatica, non solo non avrà ripercussioni negative da quello che tutti i suoi colleghi si sono apprestati a definire un’esagerazione, ma probabilmente ne potrà giovare in visibilità. Almeno questo è quello che speriamo per lui.
Ora però questo argomento di godereccia discussione pre-natalizia rischia di diventare l’ennesimo boomerang per chi non solo non è stellato, non ha capacità mediatica, ma soprattutto non ha gli strumenti e le risorse per ottemperare a tutte le norme che seppur sacrosante, pretendono a volte quasi un dipendente pagato esclusivamente per curare come si deve tutte le richieste, i registri, i lotti, i controlli che tra HACCP e ASL impongono affinchè il cliente sia tutelato, il dipendente sia tutelato, il ristorante sia tutelato, everybody siano tutelati!
Ci mancano solo i Blues Brothers in missione per conto di OCCCA e ci siamo tutti.
Qui nessuno vuole minimizzare l’importanza di certe norme.
Ma un conto è adottare buon senso e professionalità, un conto è scriversi il lotto della partita di prezzemolo usato nel sugo abbattuto il giorno XX, messo nel congelatore numero XX, presente nel menù del giorno di domani.
Moltiplicate questo processo per ogni prodotto, materia prima, grezza e lavorata, ricetta, menù presente nel ristorante e vi fate una minima idea della mole di lavoro.
Finchè sei un ristorante che ha la fortuna di potersi permettere un tipo di clientela, con un tipo di prezzi, con una gestione aziendale di un certo tipo, allora hai la possibilità di ottemperare a tutti i doveri che la legge impone.
Ma siamo onesti. E realisti soprattutto.
Non tutti POSSONO, e sia chiaro, si parlà di possibilità non volontà. A meno che non si riducono i menù, le preparazioni, andando magari a intervenire su tutta una serie di fattori che spesso rendono la ristorazione italiana quello che è.
Perchè è andando a intervenire su quei fattori che ci si ritrova con i sughi pronti per la carbonara.
Tutta la trafila di HACCP e controlli sta dentro quel barattolo.
Il pomodoro nasce in america, gli spaghetti in Cina, la pizza in Egitto, però è l’Italia il paese conosciuto per questi piatti gastronomici.
Secoli di tradizione gastronomica qualcosa devono avercelo insegnato.
Eppure ci ritroviamo che mentre il Casu Marzu, tipico formaggio sardi con i vermi, viene reso illegale, al contempo dal 2018 sarà possibile vendere insetti commestibili.
Mentre Cannavacciuolo va sui giornali per una multa dei NAS che probabilmente non gli rovinerà il Natale, durante le feste molti clienti che avranno letto quell’articolo chiederanno in sala (AI CAMERIERI) se la fettuccina è fresca o abbattuta, se la tartare con accanto l’asterisco è fatta con pesce lavorato in cucina o surgelato.
Tutte domande legittime.
Ma vi immaginate se andaste dal dentista e gli chiedeste l’origine e il motivo per cui usa un anestetico rispetto ad un altro? Di cosa è fatta l’amalgama dentale usata per otturare il dente? In che modo vengono sterilizzati gli strumenti…”SE” sono stati sterilizzati!
Vi immaginate se portando la macchina a riparare faceste il quarto grado (LEGITTIMISSIMO!) al vostro meccanico chiedendo per filo e per segno tutto, dal pezzo da riparare, se va comprato, se si può riparare, se si può comprare usato…e per finire, se insoddisfatti provaste a minacciare lo stesso di scrivere una brutta recensione su Trip Advisor se non vi fa il cambio dell’olio gratuito?
Internet ha reso una maggiore consapevolezza di molte cose e una clientela informata e attenta è un bene!
Ma credetemi, credeteci, nei ristoranti questa “attenzione” sta diventando esasperante.
Allora, caro Babbo Cannavacciuolo, abbiamo letto tante belle parole di colleghi nei tuoi confronti questi giorni, lettere scritte in difesa tua, del tuo ristorante, dei tuoi collaboratori.
Visto che tutti siamo accorsi in tua difesa, che ne pensi di ricambiare il sentimento facendo qualcosa per noi?
Le ASL spesso sono in disaccordo sui temi che li riguardano:
– se chiedi loro quanto duri l’haccp di uno studente uscito dall’alberghiero ti daranno ognuno una sua interpretazione: chi dice che ha la durata della regione in cui viene preso dall’anno del diploma, chi addirittura sostiene che non va rinnovato se si è fatto l’alberghiero.
– secondo alcuni l’haccp deve essere pagato dal datore di lavoro, secondo altri no perchè è nominale e appartiene al dipendente.
– non esiste un registro nazionale di facile consultazione che spieghi la durata dei corsi haccp nelle singole regioni dove si può andare dai 2 ai 5 anni prima che il corso scadi. Per non parlare del fatto che non è stato mai spiegato il MOTIVO per cui ogni regione debba avere scadenze diverse.
E questo solo se parliamo del corso HACCP. Tralasciamo poi le interpretazioni varie che spesso sembrano lasciare il famoso coltello dalla parte del manico di chi fa i controlli.
Peccato che tale coltello non lo si usi allo stesso metodo e con maggiore frequenza ovunque. Non si spiega altrimenti come mai, IN QUALSIASI PARTE DI ITALIA, senza fare discriminazioni tra NORD e SUD, ci siano locali che spesso non rispettano alcuna regola, dalle attrezzature a norma, a contratti in nero, a manipolazioni delle vivande al limite del penale. Anzi, togliamo anche il limite.
Proprio tu Babbo, con Cucine da Incubo ne hai viste tante no?
Babbo Cannavacciuolo, non sappiamo cosa chiederti per Natale che qui di problemi ce ne stanno tanti.
Per noi voi stellati siete proprio astri del firmamento, state lassù a indicarci una sorta di via, come ai Re Magi, tutti con lo sguardo in su, ma non vi sentiamo mai dire qualcosa per noi che stiamo qui giù.
Vedi tu da dove iniziare, sai come si dice in questi casi:
“A volte basta il pensiero”.
Buon Natale
OCCCA
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