Luglio di qualche anno fa, un amica inglese giornalista e scrittrice enogastronomica decide di passare due settimane in Italia con un gruppo di colleghi, al telefono mi informa che riusciranno a venire a cena nel locale dove io lavoro.
“Sarà con me anche Jane, sai scrive libri di cucina ed ha lavorato come aiuto cuoca nel ristorante -omissis- ”
Non conoscendo il locale e non volendo fare figure barbine decido di informarmi, clic e sono sul loro sito. Dalle foto è un bel locale: forno a legna in sala per le pizze, ambiente caldo ma non pretenzioso, molti coperti (a occhio 150) e una brigata di una trentina di persone. Non male ma leggere il menù non mi dà il guizzo, magari la lingua non aiuta e non mi spinge a salivare per la promessa di delizie che mi aspettavo così decido di aprire la carta dei vini, visto che è il mio campo, per capire di che tipo di ristorante si tratti.
“Non semplicemente un compendio
di nomi altisonanti e di annate rare
ma una dichiarazione d’ amore verso l’Italia.”
Allibisco.
Scorrendo le pagine che compongono la carta prima mi prende l’emozione, poi la pelle d’oca, infine una profonda malinconia…è meravigliosa. Non semplicemente un compendio di nomi altisonanti e di annate rare ma una dichiarazione d’amore verso l’Italia. Non un vino banale, non una riga che dimostri faciloneria o approssimazione ma studio e comprensione profonda dei territori trattati (i Baroli sono elencati per comune di provenienza) i prezzi tranne qualche giustificata eccezione sono accettabili sempre tenendo conto che il ristorante si trova a Londra.
La malinconia affonda le unghie quando cerco di ricordare se qualcuno dei ristoranti in cui ho pranzato in Italia avesse una carta dei vini così bella, capace di farmi dire che avrei voluto farla io in questo modo, una carta fatta di scelte coraggiose e che denota non solo conoscenza della materia trattata ma consapevolezza di essere un esperto, è come se attraverso la sua creatura il papà di questa cantina volesse dire “Non disprezzo le guide ma non ne sono neanche succube Lei è così perché così la desideravo e non ho timore di vendere un Lessona allo stesso prezzo di un Barolo blasonato perché tanto vale”
Il fatto che esprima carattere o meglio,
come si direbbe a Napoli cazzim’,
il coraggio di accostare produttori
convenzionali con altri naturali
senza dover sottolineare la differenza.
Mi viene ancora da pensare a quante volte scorrendo carte imponenti di ristoranti validissimi abbia faticato a trovare bottiglie che mi solleticassero a prezzi giusti, magari perché sono disincantato o se volete, scoglionato, ed ho già bevuto molto ma in questa ne ho trovate almeno sei o sette al volo, tra i 35 e i 45 pounds, che avrei bevuto di gusto.
Qualcuno starà pensando che è troppo facile, la piazza è ricca, gli Inglesi da sempre amano bere bene e spendono per farlo ed altri luoghi comuni, ma si perde di vista la parte fondamentale del discorso: la bellezza della carta, il suo non voler essere necessariamente modaiola o piaciona, il fatto che esprima carattere o meglio, come si direbbe a Napoli cazzim’, il coraggio di accostare produttori convenzionali con altri naturali senza dover sottolineare la differenza, come se l’unico criterio davvero importante per la scelta dei vini sia stato l’amore per ognuno declinato senza enfasi e senza prosopopea.
Forse la chiave da cercare è proprio questa: competenza e amore.
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